KletterRetter Blog
Climbing grade conversion table
Feb
Today I would like to spend a few moments talking about the different climbing grade systems used around the world. Any one who has been climbing for a while has probably been confronted with the different systems.
We will have a look at the 6 most common grading systems:
| Skala | Länder |
| Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme (UIAA) | Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary |
| East German Rating System (GDR (Saxon)) | East Germany (former DDR) |
| French numerical system | France, Europe, International |
| Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) | USA, Canada, South America |
| Ewbank | Australia, New Zealand, South Africa |
| British (tech) | Great Britian |
Schwierigkeitsgrade beim Klettern:
Our comparison table (Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9)
| UIAA | GDR (Saxon) | French | YDS | Ewbank | British (tech) |
| I | I | 1 | 3-4 | 1-2 | 1 |
| 5.0 | 3-4 | ||||
| II | II | 2 | 5.1 | 5-6 | 2 |
| 5.2 | 7-8 | ||||
| III | III | 3 | 5.3 | 9-10 | 3 |
| IV | IV | 4a | 5.4 | 11-12 | |
| IV+ | V | 4b | 5.5 | 13 | 4a |
| V | VI | 4c | 5.6 | 14 | 4b |
| V+ | 5a | 5.7 | 15 | 4c | |
| VI- | VIIa | 5b | 5.8 | 16 | |
| VI | VIIb | 5c | 5.9 | 17 | 5a |
| VI+ | VIIc | 6a | 5.10a | 18 | |
| VII- | 6a+ | 5.10b | 19 | 5b | |
| VII | VIIIa | 6b | 5.10c | 20 | |
| VII+ | VIIIb | 6b+ | 5.10d | 21 | 5c |
| VIIIc | 6c | 5.11a | 22 | ||
| VIII- | 6c+ | 5.11b | 23 | ||
| IXa | 5.11c | 24 | 6a | ||
| VIII | IXb | 7a | 5.11d | ||
| VIII+ | IXc | 7a+ | 5.12a | 25 | |
| 7b | 5.12b | 26 | |||
| IX- | Xa | 7b+ | 5.12c | 27 | 6b |
| IX | Xb | 7c | 5.12d | 28 | |
| IX+ | Xc | 7c+ | 5.13a | 29 | |
| 8a | 5.13b | 6c | |||
| X- | Xia | 8a+ | 5.13c | 30 | |
| X | XIb | 8b | 5.13d | 31 | |
| X+ | XIc | 8b+ | 5.14a | 32 | 7a |
| 8c | 5.14b | 33 | |||
| XI- | 8c+ | 5.14c | 34 | 7b | |
| XI | 9a | 5.14d | 35 | ||
| XI+ | 9a+ | 5.15a | 36 | ||
| XI+/XII- | 9b | 5.15b | 37 | ||
| XII- | 9b+ | 5.15c | 38 |
I don’t recommend that you blindly trust this table – there can be differences from country to country or even between climbing areas. Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades.
The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades!
Have fun!
P.S. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing:
Brand: KletterRetter
Brand: KletterRetter
Sources:
1. Chockstone
2. Alpinist
3. UKC
4. summitpost.org
5. Squamish Climbing
6. 8a
7. Climbing Guide BG
8. The Crag
9. Wikipedia
Thanks, it is quite informative. I always get so confused with all the different systems!
Thanks for the wonderful article!
I always think it’s funny when brands name themselves after hard grades, but we keep pushing the grades and suddenly the brand isn’t named the hardest grade anymore…